Since it is Fashion Week in Paris, I have decided to write about Dior ready-to-wear show.
Fashion week in Paris is always so special: worst traffic, crowded places and nice human skyscrapers walking (mostly running) in the city. They are pale (poor them: they are travelling non stop since this crazy month has begin in NYC) and thin as a rail, it is also the begginning of fall: low temperatures but all the fashionistas won’t let their sunglasses or short go.
The Dior show was, as usual, at the Rodin museum int he 7th arrondissement, and took place on Friday 09/29.
Interesting fact, the new designer of Dior is Maria Grazia Chuiri and she is the first woman to be Dior designer and formerly, Valentino designer. She replaced Raf Simons in July 2016.
When a brand changes the designer, it is almost inevitable to change the artistic direction which goes with the designer. If he leaves, his style leaves also. Of course, that happenned with Dior. Miss Chuiri has changed the artistic direction of the brand: sneakers instead of stilettos, tee-shirt instead of shirt, puns. In a fencing atmosphere, white, nude blanc and red were the main colors chosen by the Italian designer.
In my opinion, the changes of an artistic direction could be a good idea (as an exemple since Olivier Rousteing is Balmain’s designer, the brand is so successful), but in Dior situation a have doubts,The modernism of Maria Grazia Chuiri seduces me but, I must confess that I prefer Raf Simons’s modernism.
In addition, his design were close to the Christian Dior spirit. He managed to keep Dior’s spirit and give an impression of a surprising modernity : it was really perfect concerning the cut which enhances any model.
The silhouette of Raf Simons were feminine and perfect, whereas Maria Grazia Chuiri’s design is sportwear, wanna-be feminist but also genderless which is, in my opinion, paradoxical. Indeed, I do not explain how is it possible to be feminist – i. e. want sex equality- but create a fashion without gender. a tee-shirt with « We all should be feminist » on it, really ?
In my opinion, a fashion show is not the best place to express your political opinion, the designer’s job is mainly fashion and not societal issues. What do you think about this show ?
Some pictures of Raf Simons first collection for Dior in 2012. To die for.. credits: Vogue
Some pic of the first collection of Maria G. Chuiri as Dior’s designer in 2016. credits: Figaro Madame
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